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Agraharams

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The narrations here remind me of my school days spent in the house of my maternal grandparents who had a large family. We were residing in a village agrahAram--brahmins' street, called Kovil-theru--temple street. The street ran north-south, with its streethouses located on the east-west, the two rows of houses facing each other. It was a VishAlAkShI-VishvanAtha temple facing south, with a tall gopuram, located on the north of the street, closing it. The Amman--goddess, in her sannidhi was visible right up to the end of the street. Elders who visited the temple occasionally, would stand in front of their houses and watch the evening dIpArAdhana around six, patting their cheeks with their fingers when the dIpam--lamp, was waved to the Goddess.

We children in our primary classes were taught to visit the temple regularly every evening, do a pradakShanam--going round, of the outer prakAram, go round the navagraha unit nine times, watch the dIpArAdhana to the Goddess and SvAmi--Shiva, and then bring home the vibhUti-kumkuma prasAdam for the elders, which was wet by that time in our hands.

As we entered the temple carefully overstepping (not stepping on) the threshold, with our right foot first, and went round the outer courtyard, first we had darshan in the GaNapati sannidhi, which faced east. The sun would have started to set so the son of the temple archaka--priest, would go round lighting the oil lamps in each sannidhi and doing nivedanam of cooked rice, muttering mantras and shaking the bell in his hand. We would stand in front of PiLLaiyAr--GaNesha, tap at the temples of our head with knuckles and do tOppukkaraNam--squat and stand up holding the ears cross-armed, and go round the sannidhi thrice.

To the left of PiLLaiyAr, was the sannidhi of DakShiNAmUrti facing south. Our lips would automatically utter the shloka 'guru brahma, guru viShNu...' as we stood before him. Then we walked a hundred feet or so and turned right for the Murugan sannidhi. It was actually three sannidhis housed in a separate building, one each for BAla-murugan, KalyANa-murugan and DaNDAyudhapANi--Murugan in the form of an ascetic in a loin cloth, holding a staff in hand. In front of the KalyANa-murugan sannidhi was the stone image of a peacock holding a little cobra in his beak. It was fun for us to shout the slogan 'DaNDAyutapANikku arogarA!'

Through a side entrance in the Murugan sannidhi building, we had darshan of ChaNDikeshvara. We did not know at that time that he was, as a son of Shiva, the guardian deity of Shiva temples, who would keenly watch if anyone takes anything from the temple. Stealing Shiva's property, whatever small thing it is, is considered pApam--bad karma. The Tamizh proverb says, "Sivan sotthu kula nAsam"--"stealing Shiva's property would be destruction of lineage." So, as is the custom, the elders had instructed us to snap the thumb and middle fingers of our right hand and also clap our hands (actually loud wiping of hands that amounted to a clap), when we faced ChanDikeshvara. This is to show that we are clean. Without knowing the meaning, we used to do it as fun, clapping our hands louder. There was also the custom to offer a strand of cotton thread from our dhoti or shirt and say, "I give you the old, you give me the new." I don't know how this custom originated.

Then there was the sannidhi of KAlabhairava, with the stone image of a dog for his vehicle. Opposite him on the right of Murugan sannidhi building was the sannidhi of the village deity named KaruppaNNa-sAmy, which was only a pair of what seemed as little stone pestles. The inside of this room was darker than in the other sannidhis, giving an eerie feeling. Since there was this belief that the spirit of the village deity was in the sannidhi at dusk time once the lamps were light, we were rather afraid to stand in front of him, so would skip the darshan.

Next through the side entrance in the main building of the temple, we went round the navagraha unit, which was always crowded, specially with girls and women. By this time, the temple's large bell, called khaNTAmaNi* would rang, the temple assistant, who was also the watchman, pulling the long rope attached to the tongue of the bell. Sometimes he would let us pull the rope and ring the bell.

Finally, we stood before the Amman sannidhi, crossing over to the font of the rows of devotees, men and women standing in a row on the side, facing the deity sideways. Goddess VishAlAkShI standing tall in majesty, her nose-stud glittering in the gently waving flame of the lamp of the dIpArAdhana. The dIpArAdhana was first by a deck of little lamps forming the shape of a pyramid, then by a single lamp with a large flame that snaked through the air as the archaka waved it, and finally with camphor, whose flame was shown to the devotees who would show both hands over the flame and then touch their eyes with the warm fingers. Then the priest would distribute the vibhUti-kumkuma prasAdam that we brought home. After Amman darshanam, the Shiva darshanam was done in the same way, adding to the prasAdam in our hands.

On a pillar in the temple maNDapam--pavilion, there would be a pair of stainless steel bowls containing vibhUti and kumkumam, fixed to the pillar by a steel band, with a mirror above it. We would smear our forehead with a little of the prasAda vibhUti-kumkumam, and have a darshan of our own faces in the mirror. On some days, we would find small pieces of jaggery in the kumkumam, which we put in our mouth making the tongue red and questioned by the elders at home.

Finally, we would reach home, show the prasAdam in our palms to the elders, then assemble in our home puja room and shout some shlokas before starting our evening studies. The study hour was a literal fish market, each of us reading our lesson loudly, so a casual listener would find Alladin Kilji selling his horses at Rs.200/- each, earning a profit in the bargain, weigh a baloon in a balance to prove that air had weight, cultivate his garden and water the plants, release the lion caught in the net, and would be together with Robinson Crusoe in a manless island, counting the days drawing lines, after his ship was caught in a storm.

Note:
01. khaNTAmaNi--kaNTham is neck and maNi is bell. Just like the human tonuge protrudes from its support in the neck, the tongue of the bells protrudes, so the name.

02. The village is BatlaguNDu, Dindigul district. I last visited our agraharam, which in those days comprised three streets--kovil theru, naDu theru and otthai theru--maybe ten years back, only to find most of the brahmins gone and the street houses become bungalows.
 
sai,

such a nice narrative!!

btw are you related to the writer jyotilatha girija? she is from batlagundu and was one of my favourite author during my teens.

i used to take special pleasure in the name 'vathala gundu' as it was spelt in tamil, and used to imagine about fat betel nut leaves :)
 
Sri Saidevo,

Very nice narrative of your younger days in your Agraharam in Batlagundu.
Thanks for sharing,

Brahmanyan,
Bangalore
 
hi saidevo
when i was in kodaikanal....i used to go through batlagundu.....nice gopuram can visible from vatla gundu bus stand....even agraharam

is very close to main bus stand......

Brhmanyan sir,

still i like singanallur coimbatore.......rettai theruvu with perumal kovil.....all my forefathers are from singanallur, coimbatore....very

beautiful agraharam...


regards
tbs
 
namaste shrI kunjuppu.

btw are you related to the writer jyotilatha girija? she is from batlagundu and was one of my favourite author during my teens.

i used to take special pleasure in the name 'vathala gundu' as it was spelt in tamil, and used to imagine about fat betel nut leaves :)

No, I am not related to the writer JyotirlatA GirijA. I think I have read some of her short stories though I don't remember them now. Both my father and mother were lesser known writers in the 1950s-60s, and they knew almost all the popular Tamizh writers and editors of their times, and some of them such as R.ChUDAmaNI, 'AnuthamA' and the essayist 'Makaram' were family friends.

Yes, BatlaguNDu is associated with the names of some celebrities: freedom-fighter SubrahmaNya Siva, novelst B.S.RAjam Iyer, author of 'Kamalambal charitram', writer, journalist B.S.Ramaiah and writer JyotirlatA GirijA are some of them.

Yes, the name BatlaguNDu, also known as VaththalakuNDu, is slang for 'veTRilaikkuNDu'. I heard that once betel leaves were cultivated abundantly on the two banks of the river ManjalARu that ran through the village, and hence the name.

Thanks to shrI Brahmanyan for his kind words. Yes, shrI TBS, BatlaguNDu is an important stop en route Kodaikkanal and the temple is near the bus stand.
 
hi saidevo
when i was in kodaikanal....i used to go through batlagundu.....nice gopuram can visible from vatla gundu bus stand....even agraharam is very close to main bus stand......

Brhmanyan sir,

still i like singanallur coimbatore.......rettai theruvu with perumal kovil.....all my forefathers are from singanallur, coimbatore....very beautiful agraharam...


regards
tbs

Dear Sri Tbs,

There is one Agraharam which stands in my mind . It is the Agraharam in Nerur (near Karur). A canal runs in the center of the Agraharam with coconut and mango trees on its banks. About two or three kilometers west of the Agraharam the Adhishtanam of Sage Sadasiva Brahmendral is situated.
A beautiful place indeed.

Regards,
Brahmanyan,
Bangalore.
 
I have given my daughter in marriage to avillage called Chidambaranathapurm in Thanjavur district.It is near Lower Anicut.The AGRAHARAM there has 30 houses all occupied by Brahmins only and no intruder till today.But of course my daughter lives in Chennai. But she and her children have ample oppertunity to visit the village very often as the elders are alive.I too enjoy a stay there .
 
I have given my daughter in marriage to avillage called Chidambaranathapurm in Thanjavur district.It is near Lower Anicut.The AGRAHARAM there has 30 houses all occupied by Brahmins only and no intruder till today.But of course my daughter lives in Chennai. But she and her children have ample oppertunity to visit the village very often as the elders are alive.I too enjoy a stay there .

wrongan,

who are supposed to be the 'intruders'? i guess you mean non brahmins? when will we realize how hurtful such words are.

still we wonder why other communities dislike us. oh well!!
 
Shri Kunjuppu,

Really. You said it.We do so many things without even realizing how it hurts others.And more so, we justify it!
 
namaste everyone.

I can understand--and support--the message of shrI kunjuppu and shrI athreya, but I don't think shrI wrongan used the word 'intruder' with an intention to hurt, although it is a fact that an agrahAram is a street where only brahmins live, just like a Bank colony is a place of residence for that bank employees only, and that there is nothing wrong or deliberatelly hurtful if brahmins choose to live exclusively in an agraharam today. Of course it would have been better had shrI wrongan said that the agraharam remains in its pristine glory even today, but then English is a tricky language. Generally, the gap between thoughts and words is large--and tricky.
 
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hi
i agree with saidevo.....its nothing wrong with wrongan.......many agraharams are mainly occupied other than brahmins.....so he never

intentionaly mentioned....like army cantonment area mainly for army families.....but when civilian living in army cantonment is never

acceptable still today.....its nothing against humanity...but its tradition......

regards
tbs
 
With my limited knowledge of English, the word Intruders convey negative meaning:

OXford DIctionary says: a person who intrudes, especially into a building with criminal intent
 
Sri athreya has rightly pointed out that the word 'intruder' conveys a negative meaning even though Sri wrongan might not have intended to convey such a meaning. He could have used
the word non brahmins. As Sri saidevo suggested, English is a tricky language and one has to be very careful in choosing the words to convey one's ideas.
 
My intension was to bring to the notice of our members that a village is proud of preserving a vigin AGRAHARAM even
in the 21st century.I expected some enquiry about the location population or some other related information.But our
beloved members were very quick to point out a mistake in the language which is unintensional.That is Brahminism.
 
My intension was to bring to the notice of our members that a village is proud of preserving a vigin AGRAHARAM even
in the 21st century.I expected some enquiry about the location population or some other related information.But our
beloved members were very quick to point out a mistake in the language which is unintensional.That is Brahminism.

wrogan,

we cannot read your minds. but we can read what you write. what you write sounded hurtful to me. maybe, to me, a more widely accepted description for 'brahminism' would be 'insensitivity'.

your english is pretty good to consistently, that it would be hardsell that you did not know what 'intruder' meant. still you did not deny it, but only deflected the question.

it is perfectly ok to enjoy an agraharam, but i think it is wrong, to term other fellow innocent humans as intruders, and worse still, instill such values in the minds of the young. that means one more generation is damaged.
 
.... just like a Bank colony is a place of residence for that bank employees only, and that there is nothing wrong or deliberatelly hurtful if brahmins choose to live exclusively in an agraharam today.
Perhaps wrongon did not mean anything negative in the sense of criminal intent when he used the word "intrude", let us give him that. But, whatever he meant by that word, it arose from an exclusivity mind-set, the same mind-set Saidevo justifies as nothing wrong. That is what is wrong and deserving of criticism, IMO.

The comparison with bank-colony or cantonment is completely unjustifiable. Agraharam is a caste based exclusive neighborhood, and if no intruder is to be allowed, then, even Gandhi cannot live there. Bank colony and military cantonment are perks offered to their employees irrespective of caste. Even a lowly thotti can live there if their son/daughter becomes an employee.

Choosing to live separately is a deliberate act, and is a hurtful one at that. It says to all others, we are not one of you, we are different because we were born that way. With such attitude we give potent ammunition to the DK/DMK people with which they are easily able to paint Brahmins as outsiders. Then, we complain, oh they are so hateful.

The irony of all of this is the fact that for all the lament about agraharams losing its pristine brahminical exclusivity, it is the Brahmins who chose to sell out to the highest bidder and leave. This story will be found in every Brahmin family now living in Chennai, Mumbai, London, or NY. There is no nostalgia for the lost era of purity/exclusivity of Brahminical domicile that cannot be suppressed with that extra bundle of 1000 rupee notes.

Cheers!
 
Thanks Kunjuppu. You have put what I had intended .Like they say in Compute programinn, "What you see is what you get - (WYSWYG), what we read here is what we understand - ENglish is not our Mother tongue and we cannot ask questions he expected us to ask whithout being clear. I think this indicates the "Brahminism"
 
namaste Nara and others.

Perhaps wrongon did not mean anything negative in the sense of criminal intent when he used the word "intrude", let us give him that. But, whatever he meant by that word, it arose from an exclusivity mind-set, the same mind-set Saidevo justifies as nothing wrong. That is what is wrong and deserving of criticism, IMO.

Whatever your perception about my mindset, Nara, I reiterate that there is nothing wrong in brahmins living exclusivly in an agraharam, today or tomorrow. I also believe that in the event of such an agraharm coming up anew today, if the resident brahmins live their life in accordance with their svadharma, as much as sincerely practicable, their own dharma will protect them from the aggression of hostile elements like the ones Nara pointed out, as this incident exemplifies:
http://www.tamilbrahmins.com/general-discussions/4218-plight-tamil-brahmin.html#post46352

The comparison with bank-colony or cantonment is completely unjustifiable. Agraharam is a caste based exclusive neighborhood, and if no intruder is to be allowed, then, even Gandhi cannot live there. Bank colony and military cantonment are perks offered to their employees irrespective of caste. Even a lowly thotti can live there if their son/daughter becomes an employee.

The bank colony I referred to is a colony such as the 'State Bank officers colony', which houses only officers of the bank, or the 'Telecom officers quarters' in Chennai and elsewhere where only employees in the officer's cadre are housed. Neither a lowly thotti can live in such places, nor are they places where exclusivity and discretion is practised. Similar was the 'St. Britto colony' of the St.Joseph's College, Trichy, where only lecturers and professors of that college (irrespective of religion) were housed, when I studied in that college.

Although Nara wouldn't admit it, it is my opinion that there is no difference between caste and class hierarchies. I fully agree that discremination in the caste hierarchy is reprehensible, but class discrimination in the occupational sector has become a necessity that can never be brought down.

Certainly, brahmins have abandoned and sold their pristine homes in agraharams everywhere, and it is precisely this kind of attitude and indifference to svadharma that we discuss in many threads here, as we must.
 
...The irony of all of this is the fact that for all the lament about agraharams losing its pristine brahminical exclusivity, it is the Brahmins who chose to sell out to the highest bidder and leave. This story will be found in every Brahmin family now living in Chennai, Mumbai, London, or NY. There is no nostalgia for the lost era of purity/exclusivity of Brahminical domicile that cannot be suppressed with that extra bundle of 1000 rupee notes.Cheers!
I fully agree with the above observations. Despite all the praise now being given to the "agrahaaram" type of life-style and the nostalgia about it, I vividly remember how the few tambrams who could buy independent houses and move into them, during the sixties and seventies (of the last century) used to despise "teruvu vaazhkkai", the moment they shifted from the street house; the new house was more often than not, cosmopolitan and these nouveau riche tambrams were all praise for the new surroundings. The same scorn was visible in those who bought flats when the flat culture came. Thus it is the people from the very same tambram community who brought agrahaarams to the present condition, and sold their houses to the highest offer irrespective of caste, religon, and even to business which drove away the neighours also from the agrahaarams.
 
..... I reiterate that there is nothing wrong in brahmins living exclusivly in an agraharam, today or tomorrow.
I know you do Saidevo, but when you do, you forfeit the right to complain that the Bs are treated as outsiders by the Dravidan politicians. You can't have it both ways.

If Gayatri has such powers I am sure Brahmins would have never given it up in droves, if anything, Brahmins are quite adept at perpetuating their advantage, they know which side the bread is buttered.

Although Nara wouldn't admit it, it is my opinion that there is no difference between caste and class hierarchies.
I won't admit it because it simply is not equivalent. But, for a moment, for the sake of argument, let us say you are right and there is no difference between caste and class hierarchies, even then, it is a fallacy to assert that two wrongs make right. It only shows that class hierarchy is as evil as caste hierarchy and exclusivity.

Cheers!
 
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I fully agree with the above observations. Despite all the praise now being given to the "agrahaaram" type of life-style and the nostalgia about it, I vividly remember how the few tambrams who could buy independent houses and move into them, during the sixties and seventies (of the last century) used to despise "teruvu vaazhkkai", the moment they shifted from the street house; the new house was more often than not, cosmopolitan and these nouveau riche tambrams were all praise for the new surroundings. The same scorn was visible in those who bought flats when the flat culture came. Thus it is the people from the very same tambram community who brought agrahaarams to the present condition, and sold their houses to the highest offer irrespective of caste, religon, and even to business which drove away the neighours also from the agrahaarams.

You are spot on.
But equally it is very difficult to preserve and maintain the long house in villages. I can vouch that. Personally I would be too happy to live in my native village, if I am able to eke out a simple living there. No need for internet, a basic telephone too can be optional.
In fact in some of the villages in Thanjavur dt., just for few thousand houses more houses were sold to Muslims.
Now the same folks want some one to conserve the agraharams (they are not prepared to reside in it), but will pay an annual visit. They just want some poor brahmin families to conserve the milieu for posterity!! To many of these folks a/c and toilet (western type only) within few steps from their bedrooms are a given.

This is western style conservation.

Taking up employment due to economic compulsion was trickle (starting from late 19th century), which became a flow in the decades that followed.
Now a male is considered worthless if is not able to gain employment, even if he has sufficient property to lean on.

With regards,
Swami
 
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namaste Nara and others.



Whatever your perception about my mindset, Nara, I reiterate that there is nothing wrong in brahmins living exclusivly in an agraharam, today or tomorrow. I also believe that in the event of such an agraharm coming up anew today, if the resident brahmins live their life in accordance with their svadharma, as much as sincerely practicable, their own dharma will protect them from the aggression of hostile elements like the ones Nara pointed out, as this incident exemplifies:
http://www.tamilbrahmins.com/general-discussions/4218-plight-tamil-brahmin.html#post46352



The bank colony I referred to is a colony such as the 'State Bank officers colony', which houses only officers of the bank, or the 'Telecom officers quarters' in Chennai and elsewhere where only employees in the officer's cadre are housed. Neither a lowly thotti can live in such places, nor are they places where exclusivity and discretion is practised. Similar was the 'St. Britto colony' of the St.Joseph's College, Trichy, where only lecturers and professors of that college (irrespective of religion) were housed, when I studied in that college.

Although Nara wouldn't admit it, it is my opinion that there is no difference between caste and class hierarchies. I fully agree that discremination in the caste hierarchy is reprehensible, but class discrimination in the occupational sector has become a necessity that can never be brought down.

Certainly, brahmins have abandoned and sold their pristine homes in agraharams everywhere, and it is precisely this kind of attitude and indifference to svadharma that we discuss in many threads here, as we must.

Dear Sri Saidevo,

I have lived in Trichy during my college days (1980s).

If you are talking about the catholic institutions in Trichy, you might be knowing that there existed (now perhaps disbanded) an agraharam for brahmin converts somewhere near the Periya Kadai veedi, set up exclusively for neo-brahmin converts in late 19th century. Except that for a perumal temple they had a chapel. Other restrictions lsuch of barring entry of people from pallar/pariah were observed.


John Mahadevan, Rev. Lawrence Sundaram, (a Jesuit) Aloysius Mani were brahmins.

With regards,
Swami
 
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Perhaps wrongon did not mean anything negative in the sense of criminal intent when he used the word "intrude", let us give him that. But, whatever he meant by that word, it arose from an exclusivity mind-set, the same mind-set Saidevo justifies as nothing wrong. That is what is wrong and deserving of criticism, IMO.

The comparison with bank-colony or cantonment is completely unjustifiable. Agraharam is a caste based exclusive neighborhood, and if no intruder is to be allowed, then, even Gandhi cannot live there. Bank colony and military cantonment are perks offered to their employees irrespective of caste. Even a lowly thotti can live there if their son/daughter becomes an employee.

Choosing to live separately is a deliberate act, and is a hurtful one at that. It says to all others, we are not one of you, we are different because we were born that way. With such attitude we give potent ammunition to the DK/DMK people with which they are easily able to paint Brahmins as outsiders. Then, we complain, oh they are so hateful.

The irony of all of this is the fact that for all the lament about agraharams losing its pristine brahminical exclusivity, it is the Brahmins who chose to sell out to the highest bidder and leave. This story will be found in every Brahmin family now living in Chennai, Mumbai, London, or NY. There is no nostalgia for the lost era of purity/exclusivity of Brahminical domicile that cannot be suppressed with that extra bundle of 1000 rupee notes.

Cheers!

My reply in blue:

Choosing to live separately is a deliberate act, and is a hurtful one at that. It says to all others, we are not one of you, we are different because we were born that way. With such attitude we give potent ammunition to the DK/DMK people with which they are easily able to paint Brahmins as outsiders. Then, we complain, oh they are so hateful.

It is an irony that mudaliar community from which quite a few leading lights of DMK like Nedunchezhian, Anbazhagan would not speak of exclusivity by their own community.

Some people would dub it as rivalry between two elite groups of Madras -- one with Mylapore (brahmins) as its bastion and other with Egmore (mudaliars).

I know a well-known village near Madurai which has a "Mudaliar Kottai" equivalent to agraharam of brahmins. Late Nedunchezhian's relatives are still there..

Now for dalits (word harijan is made detestable) in TN, neither EVR or Karunanidhi are their heroes, but only Dr. Ambedkar and Mayavati. This development cannot be lost on the political community here.

With regards,
Swami
 
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My native agraharam is Kumarapuram, Palakkad district in Kerala. Here we have more than 75 TB families and is near to more famous Kalpathy agraharam. We have our "theru" (chariot festival) every year in the month of April/May.

Best wishes
Raghuram
 
namaste shrI SwamiTaBra.

I studied in the St.Joseph's college during 1968-1971. During our time, the college was infested with so many brahmin boys who carried forward its name by their meriorious scores, that the collge used to declare a holiday for the 'AvaNi AviTTam' ritual, marking it as such in their Notice Board.

Yes, as you said, "John Mahadevan, Rev. Lawrence Sundaram, (a Jesuit) Aloysius Mani were brahmins." However, Fr.Sundaram lived inside the college campus in the quarters provided for them. In St.Britto Colony, other senior college professors and lecturers lived. I think this was somewhere in the West Bouleward road opposite Tamizh Sangham. I had on one or two occasions called on a brahmin English lecturer there. I have also visited Fr.Sundaram's quarter.

I think the AnDAr Street was an agrahaharam during my college days, complete with a compartmental type living called 'the stores', wherein a close friend of mine was living. Why, there was this 'ReTTai mAl teru'--'Double Mal Street', diagonally opposite the RockFort temple entrance, which was a brahmins only private street with gates at its two entrances, shut to public traffic, except for the pedestrians. I have even seen one or two ordinary construction workers walk through the street carrying their sandals on hand out of respect, though this was not insisted.

I think even today in Mylapore, such brahmin-exclusive streets are there: I think, one in the MunDagakkaNNi Amman Street, for example. Around the KapAli Kovil tank and the Chitrakulam of the PerumAL temples, there are still brahmin-exclusive agraharams though they are dwindling gradually.

And then there was the Gujili street, opposite Ibrahim park in the WB Road, established originally by the Jains--seits as they were known. Similarly, usually the colonies of Christians and Muslims are exclusive to them in many places. It is alleged that the so called 'samaththuvapurams' established by the DMK were sold to their own party members. The only 'samaththuvapurams', as I heard some celebrity saying sometime back (I don't remember who or when), were the multi-storied aparments which house people of every caste, color and creed.

Living in exclusive groups and places may be a deliberate act, but need not be a hurtful one that sends wrong signals about the people who do it, nor are they are such in the perspective of the 'outsiders'.
 
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